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The foam is sliced into 10 to 20 inch wide pieces, which are
screwed to the stringers from inside. In this picture you can
see a few screws stuck to the outside until the inner screws
were fastened. Next time, I would probably either use a less
stiff foam than Divynicell, or heat the foam before applying,
and use thinner strips. I also wasn't clear on the use of a "marking
block", which is explained better than I can in any book
about cold-molding (Gougeon Bros. probably have the best explanation).
This would have prevented large gaps between the pieces as shown
at right. |
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One of the areas where I diverged from the plans was in the keel
and stem. These were supposed to be solid fiberglass, apparently
because the solid glass is stronger and helps avoid water penetration
into the core. But I used foam throughout the entire hull. In
this picture I'm using ratchet straps to coax the foam into shape
on the mold until I screw it to the mold from inside. |
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I used a few nylon cable ties to attach foam pieces to each other,
but they tended to cut through the foam. |
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I had to force the foam to the shape of the stem by clamping
a board to the keel. Probably would have been unnecessary if
I had followed the instructions. |
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The white stuff is polyester resin mixed with microballoons
to thicken it. |
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I used several varieties of Bondo, some with what apparently
was microballoons and some with glass fiber fillers. The green
stuff has glass fiber. It's heavy and almost impossible to sand.
Now that I have learned the hard way, I use a mixture of 3 parts
microballons to 1 part Cabosil. |
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