    
Foam-core daggerboard and rudder, gluing glass tape to edges,
vacuum-bagging daggerboard case sides (don't ask why), gluing
db case.
  
New foam seats are at least 10 pounds lighter than
the old fir seats. But the center thwart, even though supported
forward by the daggerboard case, is too flexible, and needs reinforcement
along its aft edge. The middle picture here is of a piece of
cardboard used to spile the "sternsheets" compartment,
but it's difficult to see the spiling line.
The original mast was glued from four fir 1x2s, then
run through the table saw with the blade at 45 degrees to make
it octagonal. It was still far too heavy.
 
I made a mast socket from PVC pipe. The foredeck wasn't
strong enough to support the mast and cracked during the first
sail, so I had to insert a piece of plywood in the deck
 
New daggerboard and rudder.
The first step was to strip off the old paint and fair the
inside and outside a little better than the first time. There's
a PVC tube through the aft flotation compartment for a drain.
 
The mast is made from two aluminum tubes from Online Metals, and the
boom is just two pieces of 1x2 fir glued in a "T" shape.
 
The mast could probably be lighter. It's easy to capsize
the boat with no crew as ballast.
 
Removing the 2+ foot long skeg probably improves her sailing
ability, but with a completely round bottom she now prefers to
spin in circles under oar power instead of going in anything
like a straight line. I will probably add a short skeg. Next
project... I'm also going to add jaws to the boom, since there
is no gooseneck and it tends to slip forward past the mast. |
